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When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end venues. But, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.